Craftree Forum Tree > InTatters Forums for Shuttle and Needle Tatting > Technique discussion - Split Rings
Thread created on 1270722065 by kersti.
Status: Open thread, open to all.
| Beginner : | 2 |
| Intermediate : | 25 |
| Advanced : | 18 |
| Master: | 6 |
*Technique discussions are just that, threads to discuss a particular technique. At some point in the future, the information collected from the whole group will be consolidated into an article and made available to all. All contributors will be named on the article. Please, if you do not wish your contribution to be included, do not respond!*
What is the Split Ring?
What level is this technique? (see poll above)
What does it look like (photos? video?)
When do you use it?
Why do you use it?
How do you do this? (Needle & Shuttle)
What things do you need to have for this?
Are there other names for it? What about other languages?
Are there any secret tips or tricks to this technique?
Is there any history around this technique?
A split ring is basically a ring made with 2 threads. I would call it a beginner technique. It was certainly the technique that I learned after rings and chains. I use it when the pattern calls for it or when I want to avoid cutting and tying to go to the next round. I shuttle tat. It helps to have 2 shuttles to do a split ring. You can do with ball and shuttle but it's awkward, maneuvering the ball through the ring. The tip that I use for explaining the split ring - remember when you first learned to 'flip' the knot? Forget it for the 2nd thread part of the split ring. After you make the regular double stitches with the 1st thread, you pick up the second thread. Start by doing the 2nd half of the double stitch but DON'T FLIP it. Let it just circle the core thread. Make the 1st half of the double stitch. DON'T FLIP it. Now look at that DS, it looks just like the other ones & the ring's core thread still slides.
In Spanish: Anillo dividido
Funny thinking about the level - I still have not learnt split rings for shuttle, but needle is easy...
Which is the whole point of being conversant with both methods! Since I am overwhelmingly a shuttle tatter, my point of view that split tatting is intermediate is that beginning shuttle tatters have to master the flip and split rings have a flipped side and a non-flipped side (which I consider to be direct tatting). So the story a newbie would hear is "Do it flipped, except for when you don't." Some people can handle that and others run screaming from the room!
I think a teacher would have to make a judgement call on when to introduce split tatting to any given student. By the way, I think a tatter reaches intermediate when they are no longer dependent on being spoon fed by a teacher or book. When they have started to internalize the tatting processes, they can start looking everywhere for new things to do.
A split ring has flipped and non-flipped stitches. I consider the non-flipped stitches to be direct tatting. For me the technique of making non-flipped tatting has generalized into all kinds of shortcuts.
And THEN there are Single Shuttle Split Rings with the Takeda loop over method. These are delightful because of one their side effects.
1. An SSSR makes a ring that starts at point A and ends at point B , unlike a normal ring that starts at point A and ends at point A. This is very handy, especially for single shuttle work.
2. Since the SSSR has that lovely loop, when closing it, the thread is already doubled over and tucked inside the DS, the same result as using the Magic Thread Trick without the hassle, if the ring is the last element of a piece, make it an SSSR and just clip the final end. If there is also a second thread, tat over tails in the first half of the ring.
3. The loop over method can also be used on chains with the purpose of simply hiding the ends. Work 4 or more DS with the doubled loop at the end of the chain. Cut the core thread and bring the end up through the spot where the join would go. Take the end through the doubled loop sticking out of the worked DS, pull the loop back up through a couple of DS and it brings the cut end with it. Snip the thread ends and the ends are hidden.
4. Rings can also be converted to SSSR simply for the purpose of hiding ends. One particular end hiding situation is when joining the last ring to the first ring in a circle. Take the free end of the thread from the first ring and draw it up in to the last ring (just like #3.
Dora Young patented a method of making split rings that substituted a chain and a split chain for a ring, which was brilliant, but not the method most tatters employ today. Dora's method was principally working DS in a closed loop situation.
Another brilliant method, is to work a ring to the half-way point and close to the size of the final ring. Continue by working another ring (which will appear to sprout out of the first ring). After closing the second ring, work as for a split chain (but from left to right) on the bare core thread of the first ring to finish it. I generally choose to use an SCMR with a thrown off ring in this situation, but the SCMR requires 2 threads and 2 shuttles, which may not be available in a given pattern or work with multiple colors.
How to Make an unflipped DS with a second thread
For a split ring, specifically, the first part of the ring is tatted normally (flipped DS, left to right, with shuttle 1).
The second part of the ring is tatted with a second shuttle and thread with unflipped DS, from right to left (from the end of the ring back to the finished normal DSs)
To form an unflipped DS on the core thread of a ring
Perform the OVER or DOWN move of a normal DS (the second half of a normal DS), BUT DON"T FLIP IT
Next, perform the UNDER or UP move of a normal DS (the first half of a normal DS), BUT DON"T FLIP IT
DOWN no flip, UP no flip
I was torn on the level discussion. Can I switch my vote to easy? What should happen with the poll is that it should be bimodal (mode = most common) easy/intermediate for needle and intermediate advanced for shuttle perhaps.
As a Needle Tatter, I find Split Rings totally easy, but having seen how they are done with the Shuttle, I find them confusing to say the least! (But then, I still find Shuttle Tatting confusing to me....so what is knew there! lol)
Split ring where's and why's: Among the reasons for using it, but not already mentioned, is the ability to load one side of the split with more stitches than the other. The result is the gentle curve of a dragon's tail, or the sharp right angle turn of an edging on a hankie, or building a hexagon. Properly loading the two sides can cause an increasingly(or decreasingly) tight curve, in effect, a spiral.
For manipulation of the threads, the A to A result of a ring brings all threads back to the same point. The A-B effect of a chain moves all threads on to the next point. A split ring is another way of achieving this A-B effect while maintaining the design flow, if only rings are desired.
The possibilities inherent in using different colors on the two sides are explored in many patterns.
Beyond the intentional selection of a split ring, it is sometimes helpful to get yourself out of a corner you've tatted yourself into by not following the pattern correctly. Some of those Lene Bjorn snowflakes come to mind.
As a needle tatter, I can see the advantage of using it to jump from one round to the next, but I'm not always pleased with the result, as it looks like an error, with the closure at the wrong point on the ring -- a subtle loss of symmetry.
One of the disadvantages of an isolated string of split rings (for larger pieces subject to stress) is that the threads moving from one split ring to the next are "unsupported". All the force of a tug on one end is translated to this join/transition. A string of ring/chain/ring divides the tug in half between the ring/chain closing and the usual picot joins between the rings. Many design elements ask for symmetry along this string, so the designer adds a second row of chains opposite the first ones. Now a tug puts pressure on three junctions and the force is divided even further. The single split ring would be subjected to considerable force and turn into an oval. For example, the elegant black choker in (I think) Tatting Patterns has a split ring series in the center, with ring/chain supports on either side. For a simple applique use, there's little applied force. For a larger draped piece, the weight below the connection will distort the ring into an oval. To keep them round you would have to limit the length of your string of splits.
For me the beginners level is Chains, Rings, Wroking with two shuttles and Rings off Chains/Floating rings. All you need to know is how to do the double stitch (and reversing work), all basic. With split rings you advance beyond the ordinary double stitch.
For me, split rings are very easy. I'm a shuttle tatter and I use the 'Dead Spider' method. I can tat them very fast - the secret is holding the ring thread taut on the second half.
Jane E has a good explanation http://www.e.n.e.btinternet.co.uk/SplitRings.pdf
i would love to be able to do the Dead Spider method, but I just don't have the flexibility. So I do what I can and flip the ring over and just tat away. It works.
I thought it is easy, I started needle tatting and its super simple using a needle but then I started shuttle tatting because of a project that I had wanted to do sooooo bad so I printed up a few of Jane Eborall's tuts and was able to do the spider method only my spider isnt that dead lol I just kinda hold the "pinch" with my index finger then just stretch out my pinky finger and it holds the thread tight enough for me to do the split ring. Actually learning how to do split rings was much easier for me then the "flip" itself !!
You are right, Rain. Once you've mastered the flip, nothing else in tatting is really all that difficult to learn. Except possibly clunies. Now there's something that intimidates me!
I tried that a few weeks ago.... and umm.... no go.... lol I think those are impossible!!!
Split rings are easy, I love them ;-) (I am shuttle tatter, I really don't like tatting with needle.. I am very ham-handed with it :-/)
I found nice easy doily on one page - http://foto.dama.cz/foto.php?f=44338 - and I like it, but I am lazy doing it from simple flowers.. so I do it with split rings:
http://img.janforman.com/th/kytkyflluk.jpg[/IMG]
No, she only said me, that this doily is homework on first tatting lessons when "tatters" can tat only rings and joins (I asked her because I didn't trust somebody really makes doily with such small motifs, I hate when I must overcast a lot of thread ends).
So my flowers are from rings 4-6-6-4. Isn't it clear how "my" doily is done? (if not I can write pattern, I think..)
I have seen tatters work incredibly hard to see that the core thread is not visible before the first unflipped DS. This is absolutely NOT necessary. The core thread will be sorted out when the ring is closed.
When making the unflipped DS on the right side of a ring, it is only necessary to focus on the position of the second thread making the unflipped DS when starting the split side of the ring. The first unflipped DS needs to be directly next to the previous element it came from.
HI. I just learn about split rings because a year ago I see one celtic bookmark and I wanted make one for myself. Well it is not too easy but a good idea was to use silk thread. Excelent for learn how to make split ring [it is easy to disarrange LOL] Anyway.. looking at here and there I found the best video for help me :
http://teaange.hp.infoseek.co.jp/tatting/tattingf.htm
It is in japanese but the visibilityof the techniqie is great! Repeat many times you need and you will make it!!
Regard
Megy
![http://img.janforman.com/th/kytkyflluk.jpg[/IMG]](http://img.janforman.com/kytkyflluk.jpg%5D%5BIMG){kind=link}