Craftree Forum Tree > InTatters Forums for Shuttle and Needle Tatting > Hiding ends
Thread created on 1471061045 by sibelabmom.
Status: Open thread, open to all.
I have a lot of trouble with this. I've seen videos of how to do it, and I just can't seem to do it myself. When the ends are at the beginning of the piece and I try to hide them in the first few stitches, I always seem to mangle the whole thing with the attempt. At the end of the piece, the stitches are always too tight to get a needle through. Is there an easier way to handle ends?
Don't get discouraged @sibelabmom! Try practicing on some larger thread that doesn't matter much. It's a little tricky at first, and slow until you catch on, but you can tat those tails in when at the start or when adding new thread.
Leave a tail of about 3 or 4 inches., more if you need it. Tat as you normally would, but with each stitch, keep the tail (or tails) flat alongside your shuttle thread. Just imagine it's attached to the shuttle thread, The threads should make all bends and curves together as if they were one thread and when you pull the shuttle thread straight, be sure the tails are straight too. Thus, as you pull your flip, it makes a stitch with all the tail threads inside with the core thread. It should slide like normal, but do make these stitches tight to keep the area from being too bulky.
Tat in at least 5 double stitches if possible, before dropping the tails, Tails can hang out of a stitch for a bit until you are sure things aren't going to come undone, then cut them off close to the work, being careful not to cut anything but the tail threads.
At the end of an element, there are many ways to finish. Like you, I find no room left for either sewing in or pulling a thread loop through, so I tie carefully, keeping all knots on the same side of the work. Then I use fray stop or white craft glue to secure the thread. Be aware that glue can come undone when washed. There are many discussions about this subject here on Craftree, and you will be able to find the method that works best for you.
I agree with amysperch, but do never cut the end until you finished the whole round! I managed to take out the thread when closing the round, and had to reopen it again because I forgot a stitch, and finally, well, as you wrote somewhere else: Aaarrrhhhh!
Another method is to use the magic thread. you can use the dental floss for size 10 - 40, for finer thread I use a similar size as my tatting project. You will find infos here and videos on you tube. Also here, I use a thread at the beginning, and one at the end, after closing a round I make a knot with those two threads and then using the magic thread on each side for each thread. That is my favorite method. Use 5 stitches as on the first method.
You will need to try it for a couple of time until it works, and keep the floss on the correct side, otherwise aarrrhhhh.....
Well, Stacy, this is one of those little housekeeping bits that can drive you totally mad. I think of it as the same as changing nappies (diapers) - not a job I enjoy doing, but when I have to do it, I make sure I do it right! I have seen a video somewhere a while back in which the tatter secured the tail to her shuttle with a bit of tape. When she made her stitches, the tail obediently followed along with the core thread. When using this method, as Amy points out, you should tight extra tightly over these stitches to reduce the bulk. And I just found that video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA0Tdlh945c It's by Gina Butler, which makes sense. She has a lot of good helpful videos. At about point 5:15 in the video, Gina mentions that ideally you would want to cut one tail and then the other, but she doesn't show you how to do it. Cut one tail, then tat two or three more stitches before cutting the second one. Don't worry, the tails shouldn't come out. You're tatting extra tightly over them, remember. Try to tat over only one thread per element too. That cuts down on the bulk a lot. I hide ring tails inside the ring and chain tails inside the chain. Gina had to hide both tails at once because she had to cut the tatting off the ball thread. The lesson to take away from this is two fold; either always begin with two shuttles wound CTM, or make sure you have a second ball of thread.
I use a slightly different approach. When I have to cut the ball thread, I try to end with a chain. It is a good idea to have two shuttles would CTM here too. Then I tat the next ring, hiding the tail inside and attaching the ring according to my pattern. At this point it looks kind of demented, with a ring sticking up there and the chain going nowhere. Not to worry, that's the way it's supposed to look. After closing the ring, I pull the tail thread from the cut chain through the bottom of the ring so that it is secured between the first and last stitch of the ring, and making sure that the chain is pulled up flush against the bottom of the ring just like it would be if the threads had not been cut. Then tat the next chain, hiding the end inside the chain. Yeah, it can be a bit fiddly when you first start. Remember the first time you changed a diaper? You'll get used to it, and pretty soon won't even pay that much attention.
At the end, you have your choice from a plethora of methods. At this point in time, I prefer sewing under caps. You can find instructions for both sewing under caps and magic thread here: http://tatsaway.blogspot.hk/2010/09/dealing-with-ends.html
For a long time, before the internet, I used the old cut and tie method as mentioned in all of the old tatting books. I tied a really tight square knot at the base of the last ring, took one thread through the ring and one thread under the bottom of the ring and tied a second really tight square knot. Then I cut the threads really close to the knot. I have never used either glue or fray check on any of my tatting, and none of my knots have ever come loose. BTW, I've been tatting for about 40 years, so that gives you some of idea of how well these square knots work.
Just like the getting the flip, it takes a bit of practise. But it doesn't take nearly as much practise as the flip, so that's good news.
It took me awhile to realize it was the shuttle thread the tail had to lay with!! I just started another corn and chaff piece, and managed to get it right by doing exactly what you suggested: giving myself an extremely long tail! I hope I get better at it...it seems like such a waste to give myself such a long tail that I'm just going to cut off...
Actually, that really long tail isn't necessary. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkQt-VFZYdo
I didn't understand the nature of your problem, so thought a long tail secured to the shuttle would help. I have never actually used that method. The short tail, pulled through each half of a few stitches, does the same thing and saves a bit of thread.. Just remember to give the tail a slight tug with each half stitch so that it isn't bunched up along the core thread. And give it one more tug before you clip it. Kudos for figuring out the issue.
in reply to Lynn's post:
This one is the method I have a hard time with. I can manage Gina Butler's, but getting the short end into the loop is the one that drives me nuts and ends up with me mangling the whole thing lol!
Whatever works for you. When tatting, total pragmatism is the way to go.
I agree, Lynn. It also depends on the weight of thread you use.
In my book 'Contemporary Tatting' there are over ten methods for joining and hiding ends, not including the Takeda split ring.
I know, Judith. And tomorrow and next week and a year from now, there will likely be even more, because people keep reinventing the wheel. Only in this case, that's a good thing. With more than one way to skin a cat, there is bound to be at least one way that works for each individual.
Like Lynn, I changed methods, too, and now prefer sewing under caps. In the past I was a total advocate of magic -loops.
@sibelabmom Thread must be your servant. Your time for an hour of tatting is more valuable than several BALLs of thread.. Using 6 inches for a tail, that saves you 15 minutes of frustration is totally worth it. The only time I really try to save thread is when I'm about to run out and have a round to finish.
Right on, Judy! I like to make a loop of a piece of thread, then as I cut off ends, anything longer than 10 inches gets tied onto that loop. Before you know it, you have a cat toy. Or save it all to stuff a toy or a small pillow, If it bothers you to throw the ends away, there is always something useful to be done... A little maxim I learned from my Grandmother, whose frugality bordered on legendary.
in reply to Judy's post:
Good point, actually! What is "sewing under caps"? Is that the same as wrapping thread tightly around an end that will be hidden under a finding? I know that's done with kumihimo braiding.
A tip for when you have lace with many ends:
Leave about 1 cm of each end until you have finished the entire piece you are making. This allows for movement as you handle your lace. Then only after blocking or pressing, cut all the ends flush with the surface using very sharp embroidery scissors. This avoids little furry tufts appearing wherever there are joins.
in reply to sibelabmom's post:
In post # 4 above, the second link has a demo for sewing under caps. The basis is that each double stitch forms what looks like a pair of trousers, with the two legs and the waistband across the top. The waistband is the cap of the ds. After finishing the last element, leave tails long enough to be threaded through a blunt tapestry needle. Then carefully sew the thread under these little waistband caps. This effectively aligns the thread with the core thread inside the stitches. You have noticed that in shuttle tatting, because the stitch is formed directly onto the thread there isn't enough room inside the stitch to push through a needle with another thread. But if you take the thread under the caps, you can accomplish the same thing without distorting your tatting. Take a look at the instructions and see if you can make sense of it. It may take a bit of practise. Try it out on a larger size thread before using it on your projects.
Great tips & links !
I follow the method described by @amysperch - It is quick, knotless & regardless of colours being used.
I had come across a tip (sorry, haven't been able to find the pic/tutorial) which can be used till you get proficient at it :
tape the tail to the shuttle thread & continue to tat the first few stitches. The tail will automatically get hidden within the stitches & you won't be confused about where the tail goes. After it is hidden, remove the tape tug at the tail just to make it snug, & continue to tat. Cut off the tail later, as described in all the comments.
Just make sure the cellotape is clean & does not leave any mark - try it on scrap threads.
Found the link - it's an image by @tatsall hiding ends
Hope this helps, too.
I now use multiple methods to hide tails while starting or ending - choice depends on many factors.
Also, I am now very comfortable with whip stitching under the cap. I find it much more easier to do than sew in undulating fashion under caps. There's a video by madtatter80 here Whip stitching ends.
Then there are @Ninetta methods of adding new thread to chains using the same method of hiding within first few stitches - this is really very handy !
Post removed by sibelabmom.
in reply to JudithConnors's post:
That may be something I have to see to actually understand, because I think I'm thoroughly confused now lol.
in reply to Lynn's post:
I will look at that link, thanks!! It's funny, sometimes I can read the instructions and understand perfectly well what's needed. At other times, no matter how many times you say it in how many different ways, I just will not get it until I see it done.
in reply to muskaan's post:
Thank you, I'll check out that link too!
I looked at the whipped ends video. Thanks for the link @muskaan. It really amounts to sewing under caps from one side only. Since I'm doing this with needle tatting, I have more room under caps and I don't have to struggle to pull the needle through.. I use the tatting needle. In the video it looked like a sharp needle. -- a subtle change can make a big difference.. too sharp and you split the threads, too dull or large, and its a struggle to pull the thread through.
What I like about sewing under caps is that 1) I don't have to plan ahead and leave magic loops, and 2) its a great back-up if I get annoyed by the ends of the loop sticking out.. or if I put it in backwards,, 3) it really does hide the thread in the middle even if its a wildly contrasting color.
@GraceT, yes, whip stitch is much less bulky & almost invisible ! I find it so much easier to do than hiding under caps despite some great tuts, pictorials, & diagrams online. Now I no longer fear sewing in the ends :-D Not a strain on my eyes, either, 'coz 1 mis-stitch here or there doesn't show up.
@Judy - you've enumerated some great points ! Absolutely agree.
Carollyn used a sharp needle in video perhaps because she was tatting in size 80 .
For size 40 & 20 threads, I use finer tapestry needles - sizes 22-26 & they work wonderfully. I am so much happier with my finish now. I've stopped using SSSR or SSSCh ( @Frivole) now because if not performed correctly/precisely, they sometimes distort the ring/chain respectively. Magic loop never held any magic for me, especially after it broke when I tried it ;-P
